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Brimstone PNW

Smoked meats with a side of kitsch

Mac Daddy and Smoked Piggy Nuts are a one-two snack daddy combo. Photo credit: Jackie Fender

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ANNOUNCER: New to Gig Harbor is Brimstone, a smokehouse that hasn't seen a meat it won't smoke, or a style, or flavor for that matter. This is a place for people who truly love anything smoked and are willing to try a multitude of flavor palettes. Dutch and Jackie jumped at the opportunity and crossed the bridge on a mutual mission for meat.

JACKIE: Holy transformation, Batman! For anyone who stepped foot into Brix 25's old home will be in awe of the transformation. It's barely recognizable. Bare brick walls and some of the shelving are the only signs of what was once a casual fine dining space. Cage partitions, graffitied bathrooms, arcade games and a few flatscreen TVs are just a few of the new additions. I played a game of "find the hidden superheroes" while I sat at the custom-built bar and admired the aesthetic. The space is part lounge, part family-friendly, so pack the kids and get in there.
DUTCH: Expect to find a small offering of beers and wine here, but the true calling in the bar are the cocktails designed specifically to pair with the menu full of smoked meats. Several versions of the traditional Old Fashioned meet this bill, but the Bacon Old Fashioned hit the spot for me. Heavy on the bourbon and orange citrus just like I like mine, with a thick slice of bacon that has its edges encrusted with brown sugar. Sip, bite, sip, bite ... the bacon really does make a perfect chaser.

JACKIE: Does it ever. I also tried the Wicked Harvest. This sipper takes bourbon and adds an apple horseradish jam. I was skeptical but the drink was well balanced. An excellent autumnal sipper with a playful kick from the horseradish. It paired nicely with the Smoked Piggy Nuts. Smoked cashews and peanuts smoked and sautéed in brisket juice then lightly salted with a dash of tasty spices. I could devour these by the handful. They were addictive.
DUTCH: I stopped in during happy hour and ordered one meat with one side for just $10. I was expecting a small sampling, but instead was delighted to have four thick slices of coffee-crusted beef brisket that were smoked to a tender perfection that didn't need the knife I was given. The smoke and coffee flavors combined for a unique flavor combination. Then add one of the BBQ sauces on the table; coffee BBQ, sweet and tangy mustard, hot vinegar, or any of the hot sauces. I tried ‘em all and I have no regrets. The Angry German Tater Salad paired well with red potatoes swimming in a creamy sauce that includes the bite of mustard for a bit of a kick.
JACKIE: I had to dig into the Mac Daddy which delighted with velvety Beecher's cheesed noodles. I ditched the kids this round and felt a twinge of guilt for enjoying their favorite dish that was done in a way they would have greedily noshed upon.
DUTCH: Brimstone also has another focus that seems to have no business in a smokehouse -- donuts. However, it seems to give an opportunity to truly show how creative they can be. I grabbed ahold of the Fat Elvis. This creation starts with a standard glazed donut which is topped with peanut butter icing, a generous amount of caramelized bananas (and I mean lots of caramel!), heavy cream, bacon, and a honey drizzle. There is a great deal going on here, but once again, a multitude of flavors that combine to make your mouth wish it was larger than a standard donut.

BRIMSTONE PNW, 2:30-9 p.m., Thursday-Monday, 7707 Pioneer Way, Gig Harbor, 253.858.2709

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