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Taco Rico

Sometimes you find delectable Mexican fare in the most unlikely of places

The bacon-wrapped burrito at Taco Rico is worth enduring traffic in Fife. Photo credit: Dutch Randall

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ANNOUNCER: Dutch and Jackie were talking shop, as they often do, when Dutch said something about bacon-wrapped burritos. The obvious next stop in their grub adventure was gas station dining gem, Taco Rico, in Edgewood. Because, bacon.

JACKIE: I plugged the address into my Waze app and let my smartphone lead me zipping down Meridian Avenue East. As I neared my phone stated, "You have arrived." Which at first filled me with dismay because I was right next to a Taco Bell -- she was clearly mistaken. But then I saw it, a small red and yellow banner on the Shell Station façade, Taco Rico. I had indeed arrived. At the back of the convenience store I was greeted with an intimate dining area, well-worn wooden chairs and charming cactus tablecloths. But I was on a mission for the Rico Burrito.

DUTCH: Bacon will drive us to visit some unusual places Jackie! But once I weaved through all the standard gas station conveniences, I knew that I, too, had arrived. Amidst the tacos, nachos and other treats, I couldn't help but order the carne asada fries, which consists of what must be a full pound of fries covered in queso and nacho cheeses, a generous amount of carne asada, sour cream and guacamole. For just nine bucks, this is a feast.

JACKIE: I did linger on some of the other menu items -- the fajita plate, enchiladas and a vast variety of behemoth burritos -- but I mean, bacon-wrapped burrito? You had me at hello. I was on the run and took mine to go. When I arrived home to open the Styrofoam box I was greeted by a thing of beauty. The exterior boasted perfectly crisped bacon that was grilled in a way the bacon and tortilla became one. The interior highlighted a nice rice-to-meat ratio, paired with their hot sauce and sour cream -- I was hard pressed to think of a burrito I've savored more. The dish is also served with a side of lettuce, tomato and sliced avocado, which I all but ignored as I devoured this small baby-sized beast.

DUTCH: I had to go with the Rico Burrito, as well, because like the announcer said ... bacon. However, I enjoyed mine fresh and hot. With several meat options, I went with pork, which was seasoned well, and like you found the ratios and flavor balances to be spot on!

JACKIE: There isn't much that motivates me to tolerate the traffic in Fife, but I will be back.

DUTCH: For this? I'd drive through peak Fife traffic to get there.

TACO RICO, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday, 486 Meridian Ave. E., Edgewood, 253.719.8938

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