BEYOND THE EGG MCMUFFIN >>>

A great breakfast, in some worlds, means real maple syrup, a stack of hotcakes, farm-fresh eggs, and coffee. In Mexico, it means chiles and eggs - spiciness of one and the mildness of the other make a perfect whole. Below are three of my favorite local Mexican breakfasts - mainly because they actually serve it during breakfast hours instead of opening around 11 a.m. as most Mexican joints.

La Huerta International Market #2: This Mexican market opens at 8 p.m. (sometimes 9 a.m.!) with chilaquiles and huevos rancheros on the menu, among other authentic delights. The huevos rancheros are a revelation with fried eggs sunny-side up, a thousand sliced jalapeños, tomato sauce with hot chilies and onion, served over two fried corn tortillas with homemade salsa and additional, soft darn tasty corn tortillas on the side. Exit the tiny dining space to the right if you don't want to see the meat counter in all its splendor. Opens 8 a.m. daily, 5605 Pacific Ave. S., Tacoma, 253.474.1727, Web site

Masa Comida Mexicana: The red enchilada sauce works well with Masa's huevos rancheros - two thin. Lightly fried flour tortillas topped with your pick egg preparation, a tasty black and pinto bean puree, catija cheese, cilantro and avocado. The sauce, slightly runny, is fiery and sweet, with the earthy, roasty-toasty quality we always associate with the sun-ripened chiles of New Mexico. The dish comes with a side of soft black and pinto beans and a large mound of fluffy rice, or Masa's honey jalapeno home fries. A Masa Smirnoff Jalapeno Mary or Masa Fruit Mimosa are fine additions. Classic rock music always serenades morning diners. Breakfast is served 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 2811 Sixth Ave., Tacoma, 253.254.0560, Web site.

Taqueria Burrito Loco: Sure, this tiny joint in a strip mall behind a gas station serves damn tasty tacos, proven by their Final Cuatro appearance in our Tournament of Tacos. But it's the breakfast burrito that makes me glad I've secured a parking place in the bumper-to-bumper lot that's often populated with monster trucks. You'll find it listed on the takeout board above the counter: stuffed with Mexican sausage, eggs, rice, whole beans, onion, tomatoes, cilantro and ample sour cream. It's everything you'd expect from a bigger-than-your-head breakfast burrito - and a whole lot more. Opens 10 a.m. daily, 5502 Orchard St., University Place (on the edge of it), 253.474.1433, map

LINK: South Sound Restaurant Guide