Bite this

Hotel Murano’s chic eatery hits and misses
by Jake and Jason de Paul
Jun 12, 2008

ANNOUNCER: When the Hotel Murano opened with a special black tie dinner in March headlined by Burt Bacharach, the who’s who of Tacoma turned out to see how Portland’s Aspen Hotel Group transformed the former drab space operated by the Sheraton. Embracing Tacoma’s glass art tradition, the Hotel Murano opened in a large space with a boutique hotel tradition featuring gorgeous displays of glass both inside and out. While still a little bulky, the Murano does the best it can and adds one more brick in the “cool” wall for Tacoma. Their restaurant, Bite, is no exception. Located on the fourth floor, the space drips with chic. Art, large tables, glass accents and a warming brown and maroon motif, the space reminds the boys a little of 13 Coins at Sea-Tac minus the shadows.

JAKE: The space screams New York chic, and yet, sadly, thus far I’ve eaten with small crowds. I suspect people haven’t quite caught on that things have changed at the hotel. Mostly convention attendees and hotel guests, I hope to see regular Tacoma foodies embrace the mod styling.

JASON: Yes, but the hotel seriously needs to consider better training for its staff. If they don’t improve soon, people will skip a second visit. Don’t get me wrong, the staff does a fine job with the basics — seat guests, take orders, deliver food, and return with the check — but service and flair should be considered especially when the packaging screams for engaging, sophisticated staff.

JAKE: That’s the problem. I’ve visited the place three times over three weeks and each time the same server told me it was her first week working there. She is a lovely woman, but I’d suspect her last job was working an elementary school cafeteria or greasy spoon. I ordered a mojito one night from her in the bar — imagine sticking a straw into a compost pile. The mint was muddled into thatch.

JASON: Most of the staff hails, I assume, from a similar background. I understand a restaurant cannot be expected to employ trendy, hip servers, but the staff here literally detracts from the décor. They are friendly, but diners choosing this place inevitably want to feel they’ve left their normal lives and entered a swank restaurant — that’s not happening right now.

JAKE: Luckily, the food is good — well priced for the quality and preparation. Plus, Bite presents a few unique dishes. I especially enjoyed the Green Market salad — literally a farmer’s market of roasted beets, haricot vert, ruby onions, cauliflower, butternut squash, scallions, cracked walnuts and ricotta salata cheese with sherry-shallot vinaigrette. Exceptionally fresh and hearty, the salad gave me a plethora of vitamins and nutrients in one shot.

JASON: Braving a coronary, I ordered the fries and gravy — a heap of shoestring garlic herb fries covered in a mushroom zinfandel gravy and Gorgonzola cheese. Bring friends; this beast knocks you out one-quarter of the way. I enjoyed the combination of salt and Gorgonzola, the fries held up well under the earthy, savory gravy.

JAKE: The truffle mac and cheese blew me away — three cheeses and white truffle oil — this is comfort food for the 21st century. The Hampton’s lobster roll, however, featured a delicate fresh chive crème fraiche — slightly tangy and definitely sweet — but the outdoor roll fails to hold its own and most of the lobster rolled across my arms and onto the table.

JASON: I had the same trouble with the lobster. The grilled chile brined pork chop suffered no structural issues and in fact the preparation retained its moisture (not always easy to do). Topped with a pistachio mountain berry relish — it lacked the sickly sweetness some chefs put on pork and instead the meat played the biggest part, which I enjoyed.

JAKE: Hopefully Bite can live up to its décor and food by bringing the entire experience of swank together to give local diners a place to feel all grown up.

Bite

Where: 1320 Broadway, Tacoma. 253. 238.8000.
Hours: Mon-Fri, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sat-Sun, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Cuisine: Combination of Northwest favorites like wild salmon and Pyramid Ale fish and chips with touches like a Hampton’s lobster roll and artesian cured meats and cheeses.
Drinkies: Full bar with several signature drinks. Wine list is small with eight bottles available by the glass.

Menu:
Fries and gravy >>> $8
Grilled chicken panini >>>$13
Greek chicken salad >>> $14
Meatloaf >>> $18
Mustard-grilled wild salmon >>> $23
Crab ravioli >>> $23

User comments

submitted 12:41 on Jun 14, 2008 by Karen Nieto, Regular Bartender, Bite Restaurant.

I do not appreciate having my picture associated with this bad review saying the staff detracts from the decor. I had nothing to do with the bad service you received nor was I there for you to judge my personal image. Your article stating all staff comes from a similar background of school cafeteria and greasy spoon restaurants should be retracted. Additionally, do not take a picture of me unless the article directly pertains to me. I do not represent the new girl. Last year I was noted for one of the best Mojitos in Tacoma by your newspaper. I am still told that to this day by several customers. I just happen to walk out of the kitchen the night the photographer came to take a photo. I was under the impression this article was regarding the bar and our drink specialties. My picture does not belong with this review. The action of putting my picture with no notations of who I am.... basically my picture then associated with the bartender who made the thatched Mojito and looks like she works at a elementary school cafeteria or a greasy spoon is misleading and in my opinion is slander. Furthermore, the staff that is employed by this restaurant may or may not be in your opinion enough eye candy for you personal choice but they work hard and still deserve to work even if they are not as hip and trendy as you would like them to be. Do you ever wonder what people may think of you? Employing only hot, trendy, hip, employees based on sex appeal and looks, rather than experience and service is illegal, unethical and wrong. I am sorry your newspaper encourages and backs that sort of work ethic. We are a strong team here and do not agree with your review based our personal image. Everyone here is cleaned and well groomed, and service friendly, that’s all that should matter regarding service and staff. Thank you.

submitted 03:10 on Jun 17, 2008 by Jake de Paul

The photographer and editor didn't see the story before the photo shoot. There isn't a photo with the story in print, and apparently the web editor didn't place the photo here either. Not sure where you saw the photo. We don't encourage or back sex appeal. We had inconsistant service on all four of our visits.

submitted 04:12 on Jun 17, 2008 by Ace

If you encountered inconsistant service during your visits, note it in your review. That's not what you wrote. In fact, you say that the basics were covered, from order taking, food delivery, check presentation, etc. then slam your server for her "lack of sophistication." You then imply all other staff suffers fron this same percieved fault. Quite frankly, that's not fair. Aside form an over muddled mojito (I've had one of Karen's mojitos at the Murano and I think it is the best in Tacoma) and some comments from your server about her being new to the restaurant (agree they aren't appropriate), it sound like a great place. The photo of Karen ran on the front page of the printed edition.

submitted 12:43 on Jun 21, 2008 by Angie Elliott

Clearly,you two don't understand the laws of discrimination.You are also ignorant about staffing a resturaunt efficiently.I'm sure the last thing "BITE" needs is a constant rotating crew of 20-somethings who have drama issues, attitude problems and call in sick because it's nice out.That's if they can pass a drug test to actually be hired in the first place,(which most businesses are doing these days).Many people don't agree with your reviews. Maybe you two should be replaced with a more sophisticated, fair, intelligent,realistic couple of writers. I'm not sure you have the experience for this. I've been to"BITE". The staff at "BITE" are the staff from "ALTEZZO AND VERTIGO LOUNGE"(the old resturaunt on top of the hotel).Of course, there may be some new employees as well, but my experiences have always been good. How dare you insult your server and than use that isult to insult the rest of the staff. Maybe you should have asked the manager if you could be waited on by someone else. Knowing(unless you're complete morons), that things may be different with a staff member whos actually been there for a while. This article disgusts me!! It's unfair, untrue,misleading,and wrong.Your supervisor should definately have some things to discuss with you, if he/she has'nt already.

submitted 08:03 on Jul 1, 2008 by Jake de Paul

Ah, yes, she's on the cover. I apologize.

submitted 10:01 on Jul 1, 2008 by Jason de Paul

I believe we made it quite clear that the service was adequate. The point we made was "fair" because we stated all of our thoughts and opinions upfront. We hid nothing. Some may not agree with our comments, but an opinion by nature is "fair." If the hotel wants to attract hipsters (which was our point) then they need to look at the complete presentation. Take that for what you will.

submitted 02:02 on Jul 9, 2008 by Angie

What on God's green earth is a "hipster"? What resturaunt only wants to attract "hipsters". I'm sure "Bite" would like to attract all different types of people,Even unsophisticated,misrepresenting,cruel,arrogant, ignorant,juvenile resturaunt critics like you! It's a hotel resturaunt! DUH!! Do only "hipsters stay at the Murano? Who the hell says,"SWANK", anyway?

submitted 08:39 on Jul 16, 2008 by Caroline

I've got to agree with you Jason & Jake. The decor was great, the menu was great, their selection of wine was wonderful, their prices were decent and the food was excellent. That being said, our service was fine, nothing over-the-top spectacular but definately good. Yet there was still a slight vibe of "diner" feel due I think in part to the booths (which have a beautiful fabric on them but still vibe diner) and the uniforms of the staff. Being from this area but having spent a couple of years in NY I'm spoiled now and looking for a couple of places that are on the trendy side. I don't expect trendy YOUNG wait staff but it would be nice to see the staff put a bit more effort in to their demeanor so as to match the vibe the aesthetics are trying to send. I think this is a conversation to be had w/ the management though who has control over the uniforms versus the staff who has to wear what is given to them. I'll keep trying it every so often in hopes that it picks up a bit (it was pretty empty when we were there). It would be great to see this place get some of the young professionals in it!

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