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Café Chagall is one of those Lakewood secrets that's too well kept — at least from us.
by Jake and Jason de Paul
Apr 10, 2008
ANNOUNCER: Café Chagall is a little gem of a restaurant, and one of the most appealing recent additions to the Lakewood dining scene. Café Chagall screams ladies lunching. It’s classical but comfy, with soft colors, comfy chairs and crisp white tablecloths under glass. Jazz greets at the door.
JAKE: In contrast to many restaurants, the staff greets customers like old friends and as if they actually appreciate their business. What a concept! A warm welcome is your first Chagall experience. Second experience? They keep their business to themselves. Unlike other Lakewood cafes, the ownership doesn’t discuss family business in front of its customers. Owner Deb Josephson and staff focus on the customers’ satisfaction.
JASON: First impression, I wasn’t impressed. The counter and food preparation area looks junky, the room hallow and reverberating, the feel cold and stark. Maybe in the summer those will be attributes, but stopping in for soup and a sandwich on a cold day, I wanted a more warm and inviting place. Then, as I absorbed the friendliness and delicious food, I changed my mind. Chagall remained the things listed above, but I felt better about them.
JAKE: Floor to ceiling drapery behind the hosting table would make a huge difference.
The all-too-limited wine list is one of the few misfires at this cute cafe. The restaurant’s artistic theme (artist Marc Chagall) and French-ish menu deserves a better opportunity for workable wine pairings — especially with a wine store next door.
JASON: I adored my French sandwich — a unique combination that transported me out of Lakewood. The ham, brie and apricot jam on grilled sourdough were, je ne sais quoi, fun. Sound’s strange? Oui. The flavors blended nicely — sweet with a fine underpinning of creamy cheese.
JAKE: The main dish portions at Café Chagall are large enough to satiate most appetites. But when in Paris … I recommend eating in the French style and lingering over a salad and a glass of wine, then enjoying your companion’s company for a while before you launch into the main course. I’ve yet to have a salad at Café Chagall that wasn’t superb. The giant cobb with huge chucks of blue cheese is my fav. All are served with crudite and homemade aioli, soup du jour and bread.
JASON: Choices are salads, soup, sandwiches, and crepes — simple.
JAKE: Crepe lovers will go gaga over those at Café Chagall. For a main course, I’d choose the Parisan crepe with ham, black truffle cheese, brie and enough spinach to fill the Seine. But do save room for the dessert crepes, where the obvious choice is the carmelized pear with Grand Marnier, brie and hard cider reduction crepe.
JASON: The desserts floored me. I didn’t expect to find one of the best apple pies at the intersection of 74th and Lakewood Drive. The crust flakey, the filling thick and juicy – I stopped after half in fear I’d explode.
MENU
French onion soup >> $8
Salade Nicoise >> $13
The Italian panini >> $11
Coquilles St. Jacques >> $19
Parisian crepe >> $21
Café Chagall
7304 Lakewood Dr. W., Lakewood, 253.472.687
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday-Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday
Cuisine: Salads, sandwiches and crepes with French overtones
Scene: Bright café with soft jazz
Drinkies: Beer and wine
User comments
submitted 07:55 on Apr 15, 2008 by Peggy KeillusYour article was wonderful and appreciative of the great food that Deb Josephson makes. Admittedly I am her New York relative and know what a fabulous cook she is and her attendance at the French Culinary Institute here in New York. It is great to know that she is bringing her skills to the west coast and your review was right on the mark. I have confidence that she will soon have a large following. Sincerely. Peggy Keilus, 526 E. 20th St., NY, NY 10009
